Every Christmas Eve, the air in our kitchen was thick with the scent of rosemary-rubbed turkey and cinnamon. My mother, Sarah, was a woman of modest means but infinite spirit. Her most steadfast tradition wasn’t the tree or the carols—it was the second plate.

Before any of us sat down to eat, she would meticulously pack a warm container with the best cuts of meat and the largest scoop of mashed potatoes. This was for Eli, a young man who had lived in the corner of our local 24-hour laundromat for as long as I could remember.